Behind the Runway: Makeup Artist Alex Levy on NYFW

New York Fashion Week may center on the designers showing their latest collections but behind every show is a larger group of creatives shaping what ultimately comes down the runway. This season, we wanted to hear from one of them.

New York-based makeup artist Alex Levy came to the city in 2013 to study drama at NYU’s Tisch School of the Arts before finding his way, somewhat accidentally, into makeup. His background in storytelling continues to inform an approach to beauty that is character-driven, expressive and distinctly his own. In the years since, Levy has worked with some of fashion’s biggest names, from Miu Miu and Ludovic de Saint Sernin to Christopher John Rogers, Calvin Klein and Zankov, while his editorial work has appeared in Vogue, i-D, T Magazine and The Gentlewoman. Ahead of NYFW, where he’ll be doing makeup for Zankov and 6397, we spoke with Levy about beauty as storytelling, finding inspiration at the dollar store and the makeup he wants to see leave the house.

How did you first find your way into makeup? Was it something you always knew you wanted to do?

I made my way to makeup totally by accident, and didn’t grow up with any interest in beauty. After graduating, I started working for various skincare and beauty retailers, first in sales and then account management and creative. I was around makeup at this time, but it wasn’t until a photographer friend asked if I would do makeup for a shoot that I really thought it was something tangible that I could do. I said yes without any real prior experience, and from there started growing my skills, assisting other makeup artists in New York and gaining an understanding of what I wanted to create.

How would you describe your eye as a makeup artist? What tends to draw you toward a particular look?

Because of my background in drama, I really am drawn to makeup that feels like a character, an extension of the story being told, or some revelation of the person who’s wearing the makeup. I’m less concerned with the technicality of makeup and more with how it fits into the bigger picture.

Where are you finding inspiration lately? Do you tend to look within beauty and fashion or somewhere else entirely?

I don’t typically feel inspired by makeup or specific trends in beauty. I definitely look to film and theatre, and how beauty is tied to a narrative or exists within a specific cultural conversation. When I’m really in need of inspiration, I go to the dollar store — I love the combinations of color, texture and use. It’s really stimulating for me to see a collection of ordinary things and how they can be transformed or abstracted into something beautiful.

Is there a particular makeup artist, photographer, designer or other creative whose work has been especially influential to you?

I am totally inspired by the work of Serge Lutens, who is such a talent, obviously technically, but also in evoking a story through image. His work is so singular — it’s very easily recognizable, which, to me, is the real testament of an artist’s creative vision. I also really admire the work of so many studio artists, painters and illustrators: Mel Odom, Gareth McConnell, Leonora Carrington, Reynier Llanes, Matthew Stone and Toni Toscani.

What beauty trends are you seeing on the streets of New York right now that you can absolutely get behind?

New York is really the perfect place to express creative freedom in full because no one cares. It’s freeing that, in the daily movement of the city, you can get lost in the crowd, and I definitely feel like beauty is a tool for people to feel like a little creative lighthouse within that crowd. I think bold makeup on the street is something I can definitely get behind.

On the other side of that, is there anything you’ve been seeing everywhere that you’re ready to move on from?

I’m ready to move on from makeup that is literal and a recreation of an image or a trend. I’m ready to move on from makeup in the bedroom that goes nowhere but the internet. I’m excited for makeup that lives a full day, that is seen in real life and shared, that is in conversation with what’s happening in reality right now. Makeup has always been thought of as armor or protection for people to feel more like their true selves, and I think instead we’ve pacified the need for uncomfortability.

What trends do you wish more people were into?

Their own personal beauty.

 

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Are there any products, colors, textures or techniques you’re especially excited about right now?

Makeup that feels like nothing, and makeup that feels like everything.

Turning to New York Fashion Week, where can we find you this season? Are you working on any shows or projects you’re particularly excited about?

I’ll be doing the makeup for Zankov, designed by Henry Zankov, who is a wonderful friend of mine and an incredible visionary. I’m always excited to help support his storytelling because he really loves the idea of fleshing out who these models are, where they are going, what they’re listening to, and it gives me inspiration to sculpt makeup to evoke that world. I’ll also be doing the makeup for 6397, which is an amazing New York brand that has so much spirit and ease. I’m excited to see what we come up with. I’ve also worked on a few collection shoots that will be coming out during Fashion Week that I’m excited for.

Are there any shows you’re especially excited to see this season?

I’m excited to see Henry Zankov take on Diane von Furstenberg, and for Conner Ives to show his collection in New York.

Runway makeup can obviously be much more conceptual than everyday makeup. What’s your advice for taking inspiration from what we see on the runway and translating it into real life?

Runway makeup is really a conversation with the designer’s vision and collection, so I think taking beauty details from shows that feel synergistic with your daily wardrobe is a nice way to make it feel authentic to you.

Finally, if you were putting together the ultimate NYFW beauty survival kit for long days and late nights, what would be in it?

A good cleanser to take it all off for the next day.

WORDS Hillary Sproul 

PHOTOGRAPHY Courtesy of Alex Levy